|Hat I made before I decided to write a pattern|
* * * * * * Important * * * * * *
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.
For personal use, gifting, and donation only. If you are involved in an animal charity, please contact me with details of the charity and event for permission to sell for fund-raising. Please do not sell or duplicate this pattern in whole or in part, claim any part of this pattern to be your own or ever use items made from this pattern for personal gain.
A pattern/tutorial for using up those scraps to make FUNky hats for the whole family!
Easy/Intermediate (easy stitches, but some knowledge of regular decreasing required)
We're not going to use gauge! We're going to measure our heads and go from there!
- 1-2 ounces of a worsted weight yarn for the band (depending on size)
- Scrap worsted weight Yarn of whatever amounts for the rest
- H or I hook (or whatever hook you find more comfortable with the yarn you are using)
- Measuring Tape
- Tapestry needle
- Patience (if your scraps are in as bad a mess as mine!)
- Nimble Fingers (see Patience)
sc... Single Crochet
hdc... Half Double Crochet
sl st... Slip Stitch
BLO... Back Loop Only
FO... Finish Off aka Cut it!
|Other hat I made before I decided to write a pattern|
Common head circumferences by age (thanks to Tot Toppers for their online head-size survey)
3 months: 16/41
6 months: 17/43
12 months: 18/46
2 years: 19/48
3-5 years: 20/51
6-10 years: 21/53
Adult Small: 22/56
Adult Medium: 23/58
Adult Large: 24/61
If you don't have a head handy to measure, go by this. Unless you are breeding giants, it should work out.
Major Life Decision:
To sew ends or crochet them in. My opinion: sewn ends are always more professional. If you are making this hat as a gift for that critical mother-in-law type person, I'd sew the ends. If this is going to be your kid's favorite hat and it will need to be washed often, sew them in. If you are just making hats to be making them and someone might or might not like it and might or might not wear it, crochet them in. If you are a big risk-taker who buys lottery tickets and exceeds the speed limit and lets the dog eat off your fork, crochet them in. If your family and friends have a bunch of hats already cause you can't stop making things (like me) then crochet them in and take your chances. In your own house, if those ends start popping out, you can always sew them in later (with a trim and some spit) or just cut them off. Or tie two of them in knots and trim that. There are lots of ways of getting around sewing ends. I am sure you know even more. But that's just my opinion, about the professional thing. The rest is pure, undeniable fact. And remember there will be 2 ends to every color change, though. That's like an hour, hour and a half of sewing ends when you're done. You know what? Just crochet them in. Who are we kidding? This isn't a chapel ceiling. It's a ridiculous-looking hat that is gonna get your kid teased on the school bus.
|Toddler girl hat|
Two very common yarns used by a lot of people (and they are cheap so more likely carelessly tossed into scrap boxes like mine) are Redheart Super Saver and Caron Simply Soft. These are 2 yarns I would not normally mix, but it the case of these hats I took my chances. I prefer an I hook for the RH and an H hook for the Caron (the labels may even say that and I probably knew that at one time back when labels were important), so I kind of had to suck it when I threw in rounds of Caron among RH and other thicker worsteds when I had already started with the I hook. 'Is there such a thing as a thicker worsted?' you ponder. I do, too, but there is. Even different colorways and different lots of the same colorways of RHSS are all different thicknesses, though they are all classified as worsted. This is because here in America, little emphasis is placed on WPI. All the emphasis is all placed on how many strands were twisted together, regardless of how bushy or sleek the individual strands became when they were put through the ringer and treated with cheap, smelly dyes. When you foray into foreign yarns, non-acrylic yarns, non-common yarns, hand-spun and other specialty yarns, you will begin to notice WPI on labels. This refers to Wraps Per Inch- how many times you can wrap the yarn going one way around somethingorother for an inch of width. RH and Caron are both made in the US, so they don't use WPI (even though Inch is almost exclusively an American measurement nowadays, but let's not think about that aspect of it as your ears will begin to smoke). I Love This Yarn is made in Turkey but sold exclusively in the US, so they also don't use WPI, either. This is all VERY important, isn't it? And I am sure it is all scientifically accurate and I am not just sharing my impressions without any true research or fact checking. I would never do that. After all, you can't make this hat without knowing all this stuff and having more to think about than to untangle tediously or to just snip. Or perhaps I am just rambling because I would rather type than dig into that scary box of scraps to actually begin this Tutorial. But since we mentioned the age-old delimna of untangle or snip, woe is the person that ends up with Caron SS in the scrap box because that stuff COMES tangled. It is just waiting for you to turn your back so it can tie itself into a few more knots. Caron Simply Soft, famous for vomiting your core for the person with enough folly to believe its claim of center-pull convenience, we still like you because you are shiny and soft and come in pretty colors. Redheart Super Saver, we secretly detest you but we buy you anyway because Walmart sells you cheap and we don't feel so bad if we pick up 4 or 5 of you at 7oz each which would cost the same as 2 3.5oz Vanna Whites or another actually almost-decent yarn made from petro-chemicals. We dream of someday being fiber snobs and not using anything that didn't come from a plant or animal, but until then we will continue to buy you, use what we need, and chuck the rest of you in the scrap box because you are worthless to us until we come across patterns like this one that help us ease our guilt a little and feel creative at our ability to group colors effectively. Ok. I will shut up now. Let's make some hats.
|*A* Box of Scraps|
Pilot: Mother, what is this mess? I get in trouble for this sort of mayhem!Yes, that means I have more than one box of scraps. I chose this one because it is the most organized.That means I combined other boxes into this one by mashing down really really hard.
Me: Don't strew any of that! If you want to strew yarn, go look on the floor under the worktable.
I am going to be making 3 hats simultaneously. One will be bright, boy colors. One will be pastel colors and bright girl colors mixed together. The third will be dark stuff and neutrals- closer to being dignified like a grown-up (who is boring and perhaps does not care to be stared at in public) would wear. I will just be yanking whatever out of the scrap box and adding it on whichever hat it matches. YES you have to consider, at some point, that this bit isn't very long better save it for the pointy end. There might be some trial and error when gross overestimation occurs. It happens. Yank it out and pick something else for that round. It's not the end of the world. It's a hat, not an afghan. You haven't lost that much time. And I only really have one rule: Don't put 2 variegated yarns touching.
We are going to start by picking out some colors in these categories for our beginning hat bands. I will dip into my actual stash for these because I do not want to have to try to hide ends on this part of the hat. You do it how you want to do it. I will not judge. How could I? Did you just see that picture up there?
|Neutral, boy, girl|
I like a wide band. You don't have to do a wide band. I will tell you what I do and you do what you do. This is scraps, after all. We are not trying to create a masterpiece. We are trying to make something not garbage from stuff that should probably be considered garbage.
Instructions are written for baby/child with changes for (adult) in parenthesis.
Row 1- sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Ch1, turn. [10(12)sc]
Row 2- sc in BLO each sc across. Ch1, turn.
Repeat row 2 until your hat band measures to 1/2inch(1 inch) less than fit chosen head.
Tip: End with tails on the same side so you can hide them easier!
Match ends and sl st across to seam. FO.
|My bands... ready to become hats|
Round 1- Join scrap color with a sl st at the seam. Ch2. HDC in the end of each band row around, hiding those ends as you go. Join with a sl st to the beginning ch2. FO.
Round 2- Join next scrap color with a sl st. Ch2. Hdc in each hdc, (hiding ends- not gonna keep repeating this- you get the idea) around. Join with a sl st to beginning ch2. FO.
Round 3-6- Repeat Round 2 (4) more times.
Adult sizes only- Repeat Round 2 (twice) more (for a total of 8 even hdc rounds)
|Baby boy hat|
What does it mean to decrease? Decrease means to turn two stitches into one. It's two stitches at the bottom and 1 stitch at the top. In this hat pattern, we are turning 2hdc into 1hdc. To hdc2tog (half double crochet two together) aka DECREASE, you will yarn over, insert hook in the first stitch, yarn over and pull through 2. Yarn over and insert hook into the next stitch, Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.Round 7(9)- Join next scrap color with a sl st. Ch2. Hdc around, decreasing every 7(9) stitches. Join with a sl st to beginning ch2. FO.
Note: It doesn't matter if it's not exact and there are stitches left over. The effect will be the same by the time you braid the end closed.
Round 8(10)- Join next scrap color with a sl st. Ch2. Hdc around. Join with a sl st to beginning ch2. FO.
Round 9(11)- Join next scrap color with a sl st. Ch2. Hdc around, decreasing every 6(8) stitches. Join with a sl st to beginning ch2. FO.
Round 10(12)- Repeat round 8(10)
Round 11(13)- Join next scrap color with a sl st. Ch2. Hdc around, decreasing every 5(7) stitches. Join with a sl st to beginning ch2. FO.
Round 12(14)- Repeat round 8(10)
Round 13(15)- Join next scrap color with a sl st. Ch2. Hdc around, decreasing every 4(6) stitches. Join with a sl st to beginning ch2. FO.
Round 14(16)- Repeat round 8(10)
Round 15(17)- Join next scrap color with a sl st. Ch2. Hdc around, decreasing every 3(5) stitches. Join with a sl st to beginning ch2. FO.
Round 16(18)- Repeat round 8(10)
Round 17(19)- Join next scrap color with a sl st. Ch2. Hdc around, decreasing every 2(4) stitches. Join with a sl st to beginning ch2. FO.
Round 18(20)- Repeat round 8(10)
For Baby/Child Sizes Only:
Round 19- Join next scrap color with a sl st. Ch2. Decrease around. Join with a sl st to beginning ch2. FO.
Round 20- Repeat round 8, leaving end tail 1.25feet long.
|'Dignified' Adult Hat|
Round 21- Join next scrap color with a sl st. Ch2. Hdc around, decreasing every 3 stitches. Join with a sl st to beginning ch2. FO.
Round 22- Repeat round 10.
Round 23- Join next scrap color with a sl st. Ch2. Hdc around, decreasing every 2 stitches. Join with a sl st to beginning ch2. FO.
Round 24- Repeat round 10.
Round 25- Join next scrap color with a sl st. Ch2. Decrease around. Join with a sl st to beginning ch2. FO.
Round 24- Repeat round 10, leaving end tail 1.5 feet long.
Cut 24(30) pieces of various yarns 2.5(3)feet long. Using your hook to pull through, distribute pieces as evenly as possible around top opening of hat, pulling to match ends as you go. Divide evenly into 3 groups (there will be an extra one because of the long tail you left, so 16, 17, 16 -or- 20, 21, 20... or, you know, whatever...). I try to mix them up here- not get all the blue, for example, into one braid. Braid to near the ends and knot tightly. Trim the fringe evenly.
Alternatively, you could make a solid braid to match (or not match) the hat band.
Okay, Guys! I get asked A LOT about how to add the braid. Let's look at the instructions literally:
Using your hook to pull through, This is telling you to pull the yarn THROUGH stitches. Which stitches? The obvious last stitches since you just stitched those.
distribute pieces as evenly as possible around top opening of hat, Again- the last stitches. Distributing evenly? Because you have more pieces of yarn than you have stitches. Some stitches will have more than one piece of yarn threaded through
pulling to match ends as you go. This is pretty much telling you that you don't need to do anything but just make sure they are all even.
Got it? If not then go here and do them like this: Attaching Fringe to a Scarf (or a hat, as the case may be) It will be more bulky but maybe it will make more sense to see pictures.
Really, though, just think of the SIMPLEST POSSIBLE WAY you can get a long of long pieces of yarn to hang, pretty much all the same length, off the end of something and do that.
Go back and sew in those millions of ends if you are the ambitious sort and decided not to just stitch them in.
If you've gotten this far and got here to start with because of my dog sweater patterns, you are saying to yourself 'gee this seems familiar'. Yep. What can I say? I like the half-double crochet. It's mah thang.
Self-striping yarn (probably bought on clearance) alternative:
|Hat that started this entire nonsense|
Proceed EXACTLY the same, only using SC (single crochet) throughout. Double the rounds for the even (non-decrease) rounds (you will now have 12/16 instead of 6/8) then do 3 even rounds after each decrease round. AND just crochet in the round instead of joining, so whip out that stitch marker if you can't see where the seam is down there. That is all. You will end with 40(48) rounds doing it this way, but it's totally worth it to get your money's worth out of this yarn that costs twice as much for half as many ounces.
Actually, those Lion Brand self-striping tweeds and the I Love This Yarn paint stripes are like 2 of my favorite yarns ever. I would crochet underwear out of the ILTY stuff, though.